The Rebranding of “Synthetic Detergent” to “pH-Balanced” Soaps — What You Should Know
If you’ve noticed fewer brands saying “synthetic detergent” and more saying “pH-balanced” or “dermatologist-tested,” you’re not imagining it. The cleanse world quietly split into two families: traditional true soaps made from fats and alkali, and synthetic detergent cleansers (often called syndet) built from modern surfactants. This guide breaks down what those labels mean, why pH matters, and how to pick the right bar or body wash for your skin.
Quick take
- “pH-balanced” usually means syndet, not old-school lye soap. It’s marketing language for cleansers formulated around skin’s natural acidity (roughly pH 4.7–5.5).
- True soap cleanses well but is naturally alkaline (often pH 8–10), which some complexions tolerate and others find tight or squeaky.
- There isn’t a single “best.” Your choice depends on skin type, water hardness, and preference for slip, lather, and feel after rinsing.
First, definitions that matter
True soap
Produced by saponifying oils/fats with an alkali (typically sodium or potassium hydroxide). INCI will list the soap salts directly— for example Sodium Olivate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Cocoate. Naturally alkaline; gentle formulas rely on superfatting, curing, and unsaponified oils to soften the feel.
Syndet (“synthetic detergent”)
Built from modern surfactants and co-surfactants (anionic, amphoteric, nonionic), often with humectants and conditioning agents. These can be solid bars or liquid washes and are straightforward to keep at a skin-friendly pH. Labels show ingredients like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, or Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate.
Why the pivot to “pH-balanced”?
Your skin barrier (acid mantle) lives slightly acidic. Cleansers formulated in that range tend to leave the barrier feeling flexible and less “squeaky.” Instead of saying “synthetic detergent,” many brands highlight the benefit—pH-balanced—because it sounds gentler and avoids the word “detergent.”
Soap vs. Syndet: the practical differences
| Feature | True Soap | Syndet (pH-balanced) |
|---|---|---|
| How it’s made | Saponified oils/fats + alkali | Blend of modern surfactants + humectants/conditioners |
| Typical pH | Alkaline (≈8–10) | Acidic to neutral (≈5–6) |
| Lather feel | Classic, bubbly; may feel “squeaky” in hard water | Creamier, denser; designed slip and rinse profile |
| Skin types that like it | Normal to oily; folks who love a traditional clean | Dry, sensitive, or barrier-focused users; daily face/body |
| Label clues | “Sodium ___ate” (e.g., Sodium Olivate) | Isethionate, Sarcosinate, Sulfosuccinate, Betaine, Glucoside |
| Customization | Superfatting, choice of oils, long cure for mildness | Fine-tuned blends for foam, mildness, conditioning, pH |
How to read your label like a formulator
- Face wash says “pH-balanced” but looks like a bar? Likely a syndet bar (common hero: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate).
- See “Sodium Cocoate/Olivate/Tallowate” up top? That’s true soap.
- Watch the surfactant pairings: anionic + amphoteric (e.g., Cocamidopropyl Betaine) usually means milder foam.
- Humectants & conditioners: glycerin, panthenol, betaine, polyquats, or inulin can offset tightness.
- Fragrance: if you’re reactive, look for EO-free or fragrance-free variants.
Common myths, clarified
- “Detergent = harsh.” Not automatically. Many modern blends are milder than some soaps, especially at acid mantle pH.
- “All soap ruins your barrier.” Not true. Plenty of people tolerate well-made soaps—formula, water hardness, and rinse time matter.
- “pH alone determines gentleness.” pH helps, but surfactant choice, concentration, and rinse behavior carry equal weight.
How to choose for your skin
If you’re dry/sensitive or repairing your barrier
Lean syndet, pH ≈5–6, with humectants (glycerin, panthenol) and an amphoteric co-surfactant. Short contact time; lukewarm water.
If you’re normal/oily and love that “just-washed” feel
Try a well-cured, superfatted soap bar. Follow with a hydrating toner or light moisturizer to balance.
If your tap water is hard
Soap + hard water can leave film (calcium soaps). A syndet bar or liquid often rinses cleaner.
What about sustainability?
True soap can be very simple—few ingredients, minimal processing. Syndet formulas can also be low-impact when they avoid overly persistent surfactants and use concentrated, solid formats. Packaging, biodegradability, and how long a product lasts in your routine all matter more than one buzzword on the front.
FAQs
Is a “pH-balanced soap” actually soap?
Usually not. It’s typically a syndet bar or liquid cleanser formulated around pH 5–6. The word “soap” is used loosely in marketing.
Can soap be made acidic?
Not meaningfully. Traditional soap chemistry yields an alkaline end product; attempts to acidify break the soap structure.
What if everything feels drying?
Reduce wash time, switch to a milder syndet with glycerin and betaine, and moisturize while skin is still damp.
The bottom line
“pH-balanced” is the friendly suit that “synthetic detergent” now wears. That’s not a trick; it’s a signal about how the cleanser will behave on your skin. Both true soaps and syndet cleansers can be excellent when formulated thoughtfully—choose by feel, pH, and your skin’s feedback.
Disclaimer: Educational content, not medical advice. Patch test first; discontinue if irritation occurs.