Moisturizers Decoded: How to Read an INCI & Spot Humectants, Emollients & Occlusives

This is week two of our moisturizing series. Today we’re keeping it simple: how to read the ingredient label (INCI) and quickly tell whether a cream, gel, or balm will hydrate, soften, or seal—without guessing.

INCI 101: How Labels Are Organized

• Ingredients appear in descending order by amount until about 1%; anything ≤1% can be listed in any order after that line.
• Water may show as Aqua or Water (Aqua). If water is first, you’re looking at a water-based moisturizer (most creams and gels).
• Fragrance shows up as Parfum or individual aroma ingredients (e.g., Limonene, Linalool).
• Preservatives are required in water-based products; common ones include Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, etc.

The Big Three: What They Do

Humectants = Water Magnets

They attract and hold moisture in the upper layers of skin. Look for:

• Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol
• Sodium Hyaluronate / Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
• Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), Beta-Glucan, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
• Sodium PCA, Urea, Tremella/Snow Mushroom Extract

If humectants are high on the list but there are few emollients/occlusives, the product may feel dewy but evaporate quickly in dry air. Pair with a light oil or balm.

Emollients = Skin-Softeners

These smooth the skin’s surface and improve slip/feel.

• Plant oils: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
• Esters & light emollients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate
• Fatty alcohols (not drying): Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol
• Butters: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Occlusives = Moisture Locks

These slow water loss by forming a breathable film on top of skin.

• Petrolatum, Mineral Oil (highly effective occlusion)
• Natural waxes: Cera Alba (Beeswax), Candelilla Cera
• Silicones: Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone
• Rich oils/butters and Tallow (animal-derived occlusive)

Quick Label Scan: What Am I Looking At?

How to Choose by Skin State

• Dehydrated (tight, dull, fine lines): Humectant-heavy base + light occlusion. Example: glycerin + sodium hyaluronate + dimethicone or squalane.
• Dry/Barrier-compromised: Emollients + occlusives + ceramides/cholesterol/fatty acids; avoid high acid or fragrance load.
• Oily/Breakout-prone: Lightweight esters and silicones; avoid heavy waxes. Look for non-comedogenic claims backed by texture, not just marketing.
• Combination: Layer: humectant serum first, then a mid-weight cream on dry zones; spot-seal with balm at night where needed.
• Sensitive: Shorter INCI lists, minimal fragrance, gentle preservatives; look for Panthenol, Allantoin, Beta-Glucan.

Helpful Extras to See on the INCI

• Ceramide NP/NG/EOP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine — barrier lipids.
• Niacinamide — tone, barrier support, oil regulation (2–5%).
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Ascorbyl Glucoside — vitamin C derivatives that play nicely in water-based creams.
• Ferulic Acid, Tocopherol — antioxidants that protect oils from rancidity and support skin.

Red Flags or “Proceed Carefully”

• High fragrance or essential oils near the middle of the list if your skin is reactive.
• Only humectants with almost no emollients/occlusives in very dry climates (can feel tight after an hour).
• Multiple strong actives in one cream (acids + retinoids + vitamin C) if you have sensitivity—better to separate steps.

How to Use & Layer

1. Apply moisturizer to slightly damp skin after water-based serums.
2. Use a nickel-sized amount for face and neck; adjust by texture and climate.
3. Seal dry patches with a pea of balm/occlusive at night.
4. AM: finish with sunscreen. PM: patch test stronger actives before mixing under rich creams.

Sample INCI Read-Through

Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid

• Humectants: water, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol
• Emollients: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, cetearyl alcohol
• Occlusive feel/film: dimethicone
• Preservation: benzyl alcohol + dehydroacetic acid
• Result: balanced cream for normal to combination skin

Bottom Line

Scan the INCI for the big three first. If humectants lead, expect hydration; if emollients dominate, expect softness; if occlusives are high, expect strong barrier sealing. Match texture to your skin state and climate, and keep actives sensible so your moisturizer can do its main job—keep water in the skin.