Ascorbyl Palmitate – Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Ester
Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is a fat-soluble derivative of Vitamin C created by combining ascorbic acid with palmitic acid. Its oil solubility makes it ideal for facial oils, balms, and oil-in-water emulsions where you want antioxidant support within the lipid phase.
What It Is & How It’s Made
AP is produced by esterifying ascorbic acid with palmitic acid, yielding a more oxidation-resistant form of Vitamin C that can disperse in oils. It’s manufactured globally for use in cosmetics, foods, and supplements.
Chemical Nature & Function
Because AP is lipophilic, it situates in the oil phase of a formula, where it can help protect oils from oxidation and support skin with Vitamin-C–related benefits in lipid-rich products. It pairs well with Vitamin E (tocopherol) and Ferulic Acid.
| Property | Description |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Oil-soluble; disperses in plant oils, esters, and silicones |
| Stability | More stable than pure ascorbic acid in oil systems; still sensitive to heat/light/air |
| Typical Use Level | ~0.2–2% in leave-on products (formulation-dependent) |
| pH Considerations | Not dependent on low pH; functions in neutral oil phases and emulsions |
| Main Benefits | Antioxidant support, helps brighten the look of skin, supports barrier and product freshness |
| Best Pairings | Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, stable carrier oils (e.g., Meadowfoam, Squalane) |
Formulator Tips
- Dissolve into the oil phase; avoid prolonged high heat during processing.
- Combine with tocopherol and/or ferulic acid to enhance antioxidant network effects.
- Protect finished products from excess light and air to maintain freshness.
